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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, cosmetic makeup and / or skincare for keratin materials, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising: a) cellulose particles; and b) particles of boron nitride; and c) nacre particles having an average size of less than 20.0 μm. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, more particularly for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.
    公开号:FR3073146A1
    申请号:FR1760527
    申请日:2017-11-09
    公开日:2019-05-10
    发明作者:Ludovic Thevenet；Khonesavanh Chansavath；Olfa BCHIR
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    COMPOSITION WITH LIGHT AND SATIN EFFECT COMPRISING CELLULOSE PARTICLES, BORON NITRIDE AND SATIN PEARLS.
    The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular for skin and / or lips, comprising:
    a) cellulose particles; and
    b) boron nitride particles; and
    c) pearl particles having an average size of less than 20.0 μm.
    The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, more particularly of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
    The skin is not a smooth, solid-colored surface. It has dyschromia as well as reliefs and microreliefs which form a somewhat bumpy surface. These irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.
    Cosmetic care and / or make-up compositions are commonly used to camouflage and / or unify dyschromias (such as spots and diffuse redness or around the eyes) and / or imperfections in the relief of the skin such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines, pimples, traces of acne and / or scars. In this regard, many formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have to date been developed.
    To obtain this effect of correcting skin imperfections, coverage is one of the main properties sought. Care and / or makeup products often using pigments based on metal oxides such as iron oxides and / or titanium oxides which can be modified by a surface treatment agent are often used for this purpose. However, the latter are opaque, tend to accumulate in reliefs such as pores and wrinkles, to create a contrast of opacity and color and to mark these relief imperfections.
    To improve correction performance and reduce this marking, it is known to use nacres often associated with blurring effect charges also known as "soft focus effect charges" or even "blurring effect charges".
    Consumers are increasingly looking for products to camouflage and / or unify these imperfections which do not produce a dull effect when applied to the skin. On the contrary, they want a luminous make-up result which is neither too matt nor too shiny: we will speak of a satin effect in the rest of the description. An excess of dullness is not aesthetic because it gives the skin an appearance of dryness and powdery effect which does not enhance the facial features. In contrast, excessive shine is also not desired, as this result is associated with the presence of sebum or sweat on the skin. It can also give the impression of poor health (oily film on the face which does not let the skin breathe) and accentuates the visibility of relief imperfections.
    However, the products intended for the correction of imperfections currently on the market and containing nacres generally associated with blurring charges do not generally make it possible to obtain at the same time a good camouflage effect and a luminous and satin effect. Indeed, the presence of blurring charges tends to lead to a too matte finish and the absence of a light effect. The use of mother-of-pearl makes it possible to bring light but can produce an overly iridescent effect and give an unnatural and artificial glittering appearance. In addition, said mother-of-pearl can pose problems of homogeneity which do not allow the desired light effect to be produced.
    There therefore remains a need to find new care and / or makeup compositions based on a combination of nacres and blurring charges suitable for camouflaging the imperfections of the skin without the drawbacks mentioned above and to obtain both a non-dull blurring effect and a luminous satin effect.
    During her research, the Applicant surprisingly discovered that this objective was obtained thanks to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. , cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising:
    a) cellulose particles; and
    b) boron nitride particles; and
    c) pearl particles having an average size of less than 20.0 μm.
    This discovery is the basis of the invention.
    The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular for skin and / or lips, comprising:
    a) cellulose particles; and
    b) boron nitride particles; and
    c) pearl particles having an average size of less than 20.0 μm.
    The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, more particularly of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
    DEFINITIONS
    In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” means the skin and more particularly the areas such as the face, the neck, the lips, the cheeks, the hands, the body, the legs and the thighs, the contour eyes, eyelids.
    By physiologically acceptable is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort.
    By “average size” of particle, we mean within the meaning of the invention the median value D [50] representing the maximum size that has 50% by volume of the particles. This is measured at 25 ° C. according to the particle size method by static light scattering using a particle size analyzer such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern or of the MICROTRAC type from Nikkiso. The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted into a size distribution according to Mie theory. This theory is particularly described in the publication De Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
    By “satin effect” according to the invention, it is meant that the formula reflects the light mainly in the specular direction and in a homogeneous way on all the evaluation support or on the face and that this light is not too intense. like the shine of a shiny oil or like the pearly or iridescent effect of certain pearlescent iridescent which can give a rendering associated with make-up more than care. If, on the other hand, the formula does not reflect light, the formula has a "matte" rendering. The satin effect is linked to a diffuse directional surface reflection. For a given angle of incidence, the diffuse directional reflection has a maximum close to the specular direction and a diffuse lobe surrounding it. The higher the surface roughness, the less intense the surface reflection in the specular direction and the formula becomes dull, the light is diffused in all directions.
    It is possible to evaluate this satin effect by sensory tests carried out on a panel of experienced women who know how to differentiate the mat effect from the shiny effects and know how to classify the different types of shine (satin effect, pearly effect, iridescent effect, shiny greasy ...).
    By “luminous or radiant effect”, we mean women between 30 and 60 years of age with smooth, homogeneous skin, without relief imperfections and having a satin effect which returns light. It is possible to evaluate this satin effect by sensory tests carried out on a panel of experienced women who know how to evaluate this effect of radiance, light or radiance, following the application of the formulas.
    The blurring correction effect is characterized by measures of Haze and Transparency (TH transmission). The “Haze” corresponds to the percentage of light scattered in relation to the total transmittance according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
    25 µm composition films are applied to 50 µm polyethylene (PE) films. The film is then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature (25 ° C). Finally, the film is placed in the apparatus and measurements of transparency and of Haze are carried out.
    According to a preferred form of the invention, the composition is characterized in that the Haze is greater than 80% and the TH transmission is greater than 80%, and more preferably, the Haze is greater than 90% and the TH transmission is greater 90% according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
    CELLULOSE PARTICLES
    The cellulose particles which can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).
    By spherical particles within the meaning of the present invention is meant solid or porous particles having a circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disc having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.
    They preferably have an average size of less than 40 μm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 μm, more preferably from 2 to 10 μm.
    Among the cellulose particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by the company Daito under the brand CELLULOBEADS® such as CELLULOBEADS USF® (D [50] = 4pm), CELLULOBEADS D-5® (D [50 ] <10pm), CELLULOBEADS D-10® (D [50] <15pm), CELLULOBEADS D-30® (D [50] <30pm).
    Preferably, the cellulose particles are present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES
    There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: boron nitrides of hexagonal form (denoted h-BN) or wurtzite type (denoted w-BN), boron nitrides of rhombohedron form (denoted r-BN), nitrides of amorphous boron (denoted a-BN), turbostatic boron nitrides (denoted t-BN) and cubic boron nitrides (denoted c-BN). They can be of various forms, including the platelet form.
    According to a particular form of the invention, the boron nitride particles have a platelet shape.
    Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an average size greater than 5 μm, preferably ranging from 5 to 50 μm and more preferably from 5 to 20 μm
    Preferably, the boron nitride particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen more particularly from the following commercial products:
    SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6058® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6059® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6004® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6064® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOFTOUCH BORON® SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CCS102® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CCS402® by the company MOMENTIVE, PUHP 3008 by the company SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS, RONAFLAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6 by the company MERCK.
    The SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CCS102® product will be used more particularly.
    PARTICLES OF NACRES
    In the context of the present invention, by "pearlescent agents" is meant white or mass colored interference multilayer particles having an interference color and which may have different levels of flicker.
    The nacre particles according to the invention are composite particles, made up of several materials. The particles are in platelet form.
    The nacres generally have a multilayer structure consisting of a natural or synthetic substrate coated with one or more layers of a material different from the substrate. These particles therefore consist of several materials. They thus include a base layer corresponding to the substrate on which is superimposed at least one layer of another material. The substrate according to the invention can be covered for example by one, two or three separate layers of different nature.
    The nacres can be chosen from:
    i) natural or synthetic micas (fluorphlogopite) covered with at least one layer of titanium dioxide (mica-titanium), in particular said mica-titanes covered with at least one material chosen from iron oxides, oxychloride of bismuth, chromium oxide, organic dyes such as organic pigments of the lacquer type. It can in particular be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.
    ii) natural or synthetic micas covered with at least one layer of bismuth oxychloride (bismuth mica-oxychloride), in particular said bismuth micaoxychloride covered with at least one material chosen from iron oxides, oxide of chromium, chromium hydroxide, ultramarines, organic dyes such as organic pigments of the lacquer type.
    iii) nacres having silica or alumina as a substrate, said substrate being covered with at least one layer consisting of at least one metal oxide, in particular chosen from titanium oxides and iron oxides;
    iv) mixtures thereof.
    According to a preferred embodiment, use will be made of pearl particles comprising a substrate based on natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite) covered by at least one layer consisting of at least one metal oxide chosen from titanium oxides, iron oxides. , tin oxides, and mixtures thereof.
    Among the nacres available on the market, there may be mentioned the following brand name nacres:
    TIMIRON SILK®, XIRONA® and COLORONA® by the company MERCK,
    SUNSHINE FINE®, SPECTRAFLEX® and INTENZA PASSIONATE KISS by the company SUN CHEMICAL,
    HELIOS® by TOPY,
    SYNCRYSTAL® by the company ECKART,
    FLAMENCO SATIN®, TIMICA®, BI-LITE® and CHROMA-LITE® by BASF.
    In particular, the following nacres with the following INCI name and the following trademarks will be used:
    TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (TIMIRON SILK RED® from MERCK), MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) IRON OXIDES (COLORONA ORIENTAL BEIGE® from MERCK),
    SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (SUNSHINE FINE WHITE (C80-3100) ® from SUN CHEMICAL),
    TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TIN OXIDE (SYNCRYSTAL RED® from ECKART),
    TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) RED 7 LAKE (INTENZA PASSIONATE KISS C91-4131® from SUN CHEMICAL),
    MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (TIMICA TERRA WHITE MN4501® from BASF),
    IRON OXIDES (and) SILICA (XIRONA LE ROUGE © from MERCK), ALUMINA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (SPECTRAFLEX FOCUS BLUEC88-1051®, SPECTRAFLEX FOCUS GOLDC88-1011®, SPECTRAFLEX FOCUS REDC881031®, SPECTRAFLEX-1001 SUN CHEMICAL),
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (BI-LITE 20® from BASF) MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) IRON OXIDES (CHROMA-LITE BLACK CL4498®, CHROMA-LITE BRONZE CL4499®, CHROMA-LITE YELLOW CL4502®, CHROMA-LITE GOLD CL4504®, CHROMA-LITE RED CL4506®, CHROMA-LITE BROWN CL4509®, CHROMA-LITE MAUVE CL4511® from BASF),
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CHROMA-LITE DARK BLUE CL4501® from BASF),
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) CHROME OXIDE (CHROMA-LITE GREEN CL4503® from BASF
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) CARMINE (CHROMA-LITE MAGENTA CL4505® from BASF
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) MANGANESE VIOLET (CHROMALITE VIOLET CL4507® from BASF)
    MICA (and) BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (and) ULTRAMARINE BLUE (CHROMALITE PURPLE CL4510® from BASF).
    The pearl particles according to the invention have an average size of less than 20.0 μm.
    Preferably, the nacre particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    GALENIC FORMS
    The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of an aqueous, hydro-alcoholic or oily solution, said solution being capable of being gelled; a dispersion of the lotion type, possibly two or three phase; an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, said emulsions possibly being gelled; an aqueous or anhydrous gel; of a dispersion of oil (s) in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type; a serum; a paste, stick or stick that is flexible or rigid and fusible on the skin or semi-mucous membranes. It can be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency.
    According to a preferred form, the compositions will be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed.
    A) Aqueous phase
    The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.
    A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
    The water may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure).
    The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.
    Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
    When the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion, the aqueous phase is preferably present in a concentration ranging from 5% to 88% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    B) Oily phase
    The emulsion of the invention also includes an oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25 ° C). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil and optionally any ingredient soluble or miscible in the oily phase.
    By "oil" is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg, ie 10 5 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
    By “volatile oil” is meant within the meaning of the invention an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than an hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) ).
    By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .
    The oil can be chosen from all oils, preferably physiologically acceptable, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and their mixtures.
    More specifically, by "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one SiO group.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
    The concentration in the oily phase of the emulsion of the invention varies, preferably, from 3 to 90% by weight and more particularly ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    By way of example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned:
    - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular the Cs-Cw isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, branched esters in Cs-CI6, isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Either by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.
    As an example of a volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10 ′ 6 m 2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular caprylyl methicone, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disox trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane
    - and their mixtures.
    By way of example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned:
    - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;
    - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;
    - phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203®),
    the triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from Cis to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame (820.6 g / mol), corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, d evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
    - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether,
    - the hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a residue of carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as ketostearyl octanoate , isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, octanoate of cetyl, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl palmitate 2-hexyl, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, dietyl propylene glycol 2-hexanoate and their mixtures, benzoates of a C12 to C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, esters isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebaccate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;
    the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made, as such, of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: dilinoleicacid / butanediol copolymer), or alternatively the copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®,
    polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetrahydroxystearate,
    - fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol,
    2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
    - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and
    - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216® sold or manufactured by the company ISP,
    - esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;
    - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate,
    esters of fatty alcohol or of branched fatty acids of C24-C28 such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate,
    the esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as the esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and the esters of dimer diols and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into this application by reference
    - and their mixtures.
    Among the non-volatile fluorinated and / or silicone oils that may be mentioned:
    - fluorinated oils optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;
    - non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates.
    Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil and even more preferably chosen from
    volatile cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from l hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexasiloxane), and mixtures thereof;
    - volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (INCI name: DIMETHICONE);
    - phenylated silicones;
    - Polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly caprylyl methicone such as the commercial product DOW CORNING FZ-3196® by the company DOW CORNING;
    - their mixtures.
    C) Emulsifiers
    The water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention generally comprise at least one water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifying surfactant, preferably nonionic.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase. The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilie balance or hydrophilic balance -lipophilic), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection "(published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For W / O emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method.
    As an example of W / O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as that having the name INCI DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE sold under the brand X-22-6711D® by the company SHIN ETSU, the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol , sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol such as CETYL PEG / PPG10 / 1 DIMETHICONE such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and laurate of hexyl sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers can also be added thereto, which advantageously can be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.
    Mention may also be made of mixtures of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohol, such as the mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the trade name Fluidanov 20 X® from the company SEPPIC with the name INCI OCTYLDODECANOL (and) OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE.
    As alkylated polyol esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE such as the product sold under the name CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) "by the company CRODA.
    As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, there may be mentioned for example polyglycerol isostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan Gl 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, the diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl- 4
    Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GPS ® by the company Evonik, and their mixtures.
    According to a particular form of the invention, the emulsifying surfactant can be chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers.
    By “silicone elastomer” is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to regain its original shape after stretching.
    The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
    a) Polvoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers
    The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
    Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C1) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in the patents US5236986 and US5412004.
    In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
    The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl , stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
    The compound (A1) can be selected from trimethylsiloxy methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes terminations, the terminations trimethylsiloxy diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane copolymers, cyclic copolymers diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane, diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings.
    Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
    Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinylic compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenated having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
    The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles.
    Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487.
    As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, those with the following INCI name can be used:
    Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
    PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
    PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
    PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
    PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,
    PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
    They are sold in particular under the names KSG® by the company Shin Etsu
    KSG-210® (INCI name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer KSG-310® INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Minerai oil; KSG-320® INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and
    Isododecane;
    KSG-330® INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and
    Triethylhexanoin;
    KSG-340® INCI Name: Squalane and PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and
    They are sold in particular by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend ®; INCI Name: Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer
    Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend® by the company DOW CORNING for the compound with the name INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer.
    b) Polyqlycerolated silicone elastomers
    The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.
    Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of glycerol compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular by presence (C) of platinum catalyst.
    In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
    Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
    Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
    The compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
    Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B).
    The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl , stearyl,; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl, lauryl groups.
    The compound (A) may thus be selected from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes trimethylsiloxy endings, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic copolymers diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane, diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings.
    The compound (B) can be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B 1 ):
    CmH2m-1 - O- [Gly] n - CmH2m-1 (B) in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, and preferably ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly means:
    -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -O- or -CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of atoms of hydrogen bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
    It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to be ethylenic unsaturation in compound (B) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
    Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
    The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).
    The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
    Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO2004 / 024798.
    As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, the following compounds of INCI name can be used:
    Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer,
    Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
    They are sold in particular by Shin Etsu under the following names:
    KSG-710® "; INCI Name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone
    KSG-810® "; INCI Name: Ore Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
    KSG-820® "; INCI Name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
    KSG-830® "; INCI Name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
    KSG-840® "; INCI Name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer.
    According to a particular form of the invention, the W / O emulsifying surfactant will be chosen from
    i) mixtures of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohol, in particular a mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the trade name Fluidanov 20 X® from the company SEPPIC with the name INCI OCTYLDODECANOL (and) OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE;
    ii) polyethylene glycol esters, in particular PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE such as the product sold under the name CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) "by the company CRODA;
    iii) and their mixtures, and more particularly a mixture containing OTYLDODECANOL (and) OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE and PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE.
    Additives
    In a known manner, the cosmetic composition may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, sunscreens, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, as well as softeners, stabilizers, hydrating agents, vitamins, scaling agents, depigmenting agents, bactericides, polymers, a fatty phase structuring agent in particular chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, mineral or organic lipophilic gelling agents ; organic or inorganic fillers; thickeners or suspending agents.
    The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetic field, and for example vary from approximately 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.
    Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition (s) envisaged. .
    Additional coloring matter
    A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of those skilled in the art. art.
    The additional coloring matters suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also liposoluble.
    By “water-soluble coloring matter”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.
    As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, chlorophyllin copper, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.
    Water-soluble colors are, for example, beet juice and caramel.
    By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or the solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.
    As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.
    Moisturizers
    Preferably, the composition contains at least one moisturizing agent.
    The hydrating agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    Preferably the hydrating agent is glycerin.
    Thickeners and suspending agents
    The thickeners can be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen® (Acrylate / C10-C30alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (INCI name: POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH 7) or Simulgel 600® (INCI name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER / ISOHEXADECANE / ISOHEXADECANE) Seppic company; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®" ( INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) or the SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (name CTFA: SODIUM POLYACRYOLYLDIMETHYL TAURATE / POLYSORBATE 80 / SORBITAN OLEATE) or the SIMULGEL EG® marketed by ACHYLUM / ACRYLIC TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80; copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as g Xanthan ome, hydroxypropylated guar gums; silicas such as, for example, Bentone Gel MOI® sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or Veegum Ultra®, sold by the company POLYPLASTIC.
    COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
    According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face and / or around the eyes. , to homogenize the relief and / or color imperfections with a natural result, in particular to camouflage and / or smooth the relief imperfections of the skin, such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines, and / or homogenize the complexion of the skin of the face and / or neck, in particular correcting diffuse spots or redness of the skin and / or correcting redness around the eye, or dark circles.
    According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a make-up and / or care product for camouflaging and / or smoothing the imperfections in relief and in color of the face or body or hands, such as a foundation, and more particularly creams of the “BB Cream” or “CC Cream” type.
    According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a makeup and / or care product for the eye area, dark circles, eyelids such as eyeshadow, an anti product -cernes.
    According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up and / or caring for the lips to camouflage and / or smooth imperfections in relief and in color.
    Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
    The expressions "between ... and ..." must be understood as bounds, unless specified to the contrary. Expressions ranging from ... to ... "shall be understood to include bounds, unless otherwise specified.
    The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by mass.
    EXAMPLES
    EXAMPLE 1 DAY CORRECTIVE CARE CREAM (WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION)
    Phase INCI Name Concentration% by weight AT BEESWAX 1 PEG-30DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) ®) 1.5 CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS (CRODAMOL MS-PA- (MH®)) 0.5 OCTYLDODECANOL (and)OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE(FLUIDANOV 20X®) 2 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 1.5 Dimethicone 1 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 1.5 B1 WATER qs 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 Yellow6 0,001 RED 4 0.00006 B2 SODIUM ACRYLATE / SODIUMACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATECOPOLYMER (and)ISOHEXADECANE (and)POLYSORBATE 80 (SIMULGEL EG®) 1.9 VS GLYCERIN 15 WATER 10 D CELLULOSE BALLS(CELLULOBEADS USF) 5 BORON NITRIDE (SOFTOUCH CCS 102®) 1.5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (TIMIRON SILK RED®) 1 E DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL 0.5 FRAGRANCE 0.1 F ALCOHOL DENATURATED 5
    Preparation protocol
    The internal aqueous phase gelled with Simulgel EG® was first prepared at a temperature of 55 ° C (B1 + B2) with Rayneri.
    The emulsion was then formed by adding the oily phase A heated to 80 or 85 ° C. Phase C was added at 1000 rpm.
    The fillers and the nacres were then added to the preparation at 50 ° C.
    At room temperature (25 ° C), phases E and F were added at 120 rpm
    We compared in terms of relief correction, satiny effect and radiant effect this composition 1 of the invention to a reference composition 2 on the care products market: Corrector Hydrating Cream Perfect Skin® - Sublimist- L 'OREAL PARIS having as list of ingredients:
    AQUA (WATER), DIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE, OCTYLDODECANOL, CETYL ALCOHOL, SILICA (NANO) / SILICA, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, TALC, PTFEAAR, POLYETHARK ALCOHOL, Carbomer, arachidyl ALCOHOL, Dimethicone / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, cetearyl glucoside, SODIUM hYALURONATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, palmitic acid, aDENOSINE, POLOXAMER 338, ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide / AMMONIUM polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, DISODIUM EDTA, capryloyl salicylic acid, Caprylyl Glycol, LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) SEED EXTRACT, DEXTRIN, PHENOXYETHANOL, Cl 16035 (RED 40), Cl 17200 (RED 3), LINALOOL, ALPHAISOMETHYL IONONE, LIMONENE, CITRAL, CITRONELLOL, FRAGRANCE), FIL B159063 / 2.
    SENSORY TESTS (IN VIVO)
    A qualitative vivo test was carried out on a panel of 12 women, all regular users of day cream with radiant benefits; normal to dry skin, very light to medium skin tones, with slight imperfections (except redness)
    The 12 women are divided into two age groups: half are between 30 and 36 years old and the other half are between 37 and 45 years old. They are equally distributed according to their skin type: 4 women with normal skin, 4 combination skin and 4 dry skin. They present
    All women have fine lines (more or less accentuated depending on the age and skin type of women). None show localized redness, especially on the cheeks and / or upper forehead
    The test was carried out at home on each of the two formulations 1 and 2 for 3 days.
    Results
    All of the women evaluators found that the formula 1 according to the invention produced a uniform and homogeneous complexion, a visual smoothing effect attenuating the appearance of fine lines while depositing a satin light on the entire face.
    All of the women evaluators found that the reference formula 2 on the face care market for the correction of the reliefs produced a unified and homogeneous complexion, a visual smoothing effect attenuating the appearance of fine lines but unlike example 1 of the invention gave a matt, powdery "finish and a lack of light.
    TESTS OF THE BLOOD COORECTOR EFFECT (IN VITRO)
    The blurring corrective effect of each of Examples 1 and 21 was measured. This is characterized by measures of Haze and of transparency (TH transmission). The “Haze” corresponds to the percentage of light scattered in relation to the total transmittance according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
    25 µm films of composition were applied to 50 µm polyethylene (PE) films. The film was then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature (25 ° C). Finally, the film was placed in the camera and transparency and Haze measurements were made.
    Results
    The results are summarized in the following table:
    Composition tested Transparency (TH transmission) Haze Example 1 (invention) 92.5% 92.13% Reference example 2 91.8% 61.4%
    As a result, the composition of Example 1 according to the invention exhibited both good performance in correcting imperfections, a uniform and homogeneous complexion and a satin radiant effect in contrast to Reference Example 2. In addition, example 1 showed a better blurring corrective effect which results in a significantly higher HAZE compared to reference example 2.
    权利要求:
    Claims (14)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising:
    a) cellulose particles; and
    b) boron nitride particles; and
    c) pearl particles having an average size of less than 20.0 μm.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the cellulose particles are present in the form of spherical particles.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cellulose particles have an average size of less than 40 μm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 μm, even more preferably from 2 to 10 μm.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which cellulose particles are present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10%, preferably ranging from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the boron nitride particles have an average size greater than 5 μm, preferably ranging from 5 to 50 μm and more preferably from 5 to 20 μm.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the boron nitride particles have a platelet form.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the boron nitride particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nacres are present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pearl particles are chosen from:
    i) natural or synthetic micas (fluorphlogopite) covered with at least one layer of titanium dioxide (mica-titanium), in particular said mica-titanes covered with at least one material chosen from iron oxides, oxychloride of bismuth, chromium oxide, organic dyes;
    ii) natural or synthetic micas covered with at least one layer of bismuth oxychloride (bismuth mica-oxychloride), in particular said bismuth micaoxychloride covered with at least one material chosen from iron oxides, oxide of chromium, chromium hydroxide, ultramarines, organic dyes;
    iii) nacres having silica or alumina as a substrate, said substrate being covered with at least one layer consisting of at least one metal oxide, in particular chosen from titanium oxides and iron oxides;
    iv) mixtures thereof.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the composition comprises at least one W / O emulsifying surfactant, preferably nonionic.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to claim 11, in which the W / O emulsifying surfactant is tension chosen from
    i) mixtures of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohol, in particular a mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside (INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL (and) OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE);
    ii) polyethylene glycol esters, in particular PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE;
    iii) and their mixtures and more particularly a mixture containing OCTYLDODECANOL (and) OCTYLDODECYL XYLOSIDE and PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises at least one hydrating agent, in particular glycerin.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, more particularly care and / or make-up of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined in one of the preceding claims
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    EP2826460B1|2017-08-23|Emulsion containing a dispersion of bismuth oxychloride
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3073146B1|2020-06-19|
    EP3706870A1|2020-09-16|
    WO2019091663A1|2019-05-16|
    US20200352844A1|2020-11-12|
    KR20200081447A|2020-07-07|
    CN111295227A|2020-06-16|
    JP2021501192A|2021-01-14|
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    法律状态:
    2019-05-10| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20190510 |
    2019-10-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2020-10-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-09-30| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1760527A|FR3073146B1|2017-11-09|2017-11-09|COMPOSITION WITH LIGHT AND SATIN EFFECT COMPRISING CELLULOSE PARTICLES, BORON NITRIDE AND SATIN PEARLS|
    FR1760527|2017-11-09|FR1760527A| FR3073146B1|2017-11-09|2017-11-09|COMPOSITION WITH LIGHT AND SATIN EFFECT COMPRISING CELLULOSE PARTICLES, BORON NITRIDE AND SATIN PEARLS|
    US16/762,002| US20200352844A1|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|Composition with luminous satin effect comprising particles of cellulose, of boron nitride and of satin nacres|
    EP18778484.8A| EP3706870A1|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|Composition with luminous satin effect comprising particles of cellulose, of boron nitride and of satin nacres|
    CN201880071745.3A| CN111295227A|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|Composition with a bright satin effect comprising cellulose, boron nitride and particles of satin mother-of-pearl|
    KR1020207015500A| KR20200081447A|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|Composition having luster satin effect comprising cellulose particles, boron nitride particles and satin naker particles|
    JP2020524459A| JP2021501192A|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|A composition having a satin luster effect that gives brightness, including particles of cellulose, boron nitride and a pearl brightener exhibiting satin luster.|
    PCT/EP2018/076328| WO2019091663A1|2017-11-09|2018-09-27|Composition with luminous satin effect comprising particles of cellulose, of boron nitride and of satin nacres|
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